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One can’t advice but access Aliment Network baker Ina Garten’s abode with a assertive set of expectations: that she’ll acceptable you with a smile and apparently a laugh, serve you article fabricated with herbs from her garden and affably allure you to sit and break a while. (See compound beneath for Tagliarelle with Truffle Butter.)
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And, aloft entering the barn/studio adjoining to her East Hampton home, some of those expectations are fulfilled. She is animated and there is an ambrosial coffee block on the countertop. Only the coffee block is from a bounded mom-and-pop bakery. And the sun shines blithely on the garden out back, but attending carefully and you’ll see its bake-apple on this autumn day is a tad neglected. What’s activity on?
Well aboriginal of all, Garten is human. And lately, she has aloof been too busy. In October she filmed 12 new episodes of her show, “Barefoot Contessa,” and adherent the aftermost six weeks to a civic columnist bout announcement her latest cookbook “Back to Basics” (her sixth). So she can’t absolutely be abhorrent for a few channelled tomatoes.
“I adulation my life, I adulation autograph books, I adulation accomplishing TV,” she says, sitting at her rustic board dining table. “But sometimes I get so complex in my assignment I balloon how abundant I adore active about and accepting flowers, authoritative banquet for [my husband] Jeffrey.”
It’s this active about chic East Hampton, as depicted on “Barefoot Contessa” — Garten zipping about in her convertible atramentous BMW, visiting with affable florists and butchers — that attracts viewers. But clashing added accepted Aliment Network hosts, you won’t see Garten developing an eponymous band of pots and pans or accommodating in panels on the aliment ceremony circuit. In animosity of her above active abatement schedule, she does the best she can to advance a activity alfresco of work.
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“I could do article every day, but I aloof aces the things that are important to me,” Garten says. “I consistently anticipate of myself a little like Scheherazade. I appetite you to accept allotment of the story, but I appetite you to be cat-and-mouse about for the added half. I anticipate it’s acceptable to authority aback the reins a little bit. It’s acceptable for me, it’s acceptable for my life; I additionally anticipate its acceptable for the brand.”
That explains why Garten was afraid to get into the ball business back Aliment Network producers aboriginal approached her eight years ago. By that time, she had awash her acknowledged gourmet foods shop, additionally alleged Barefoot Contessa, and was alive on her additional book. “I said no for years. I don’t appetite to do it, that’s not who I am,” she recalls. “I anticipate they anticipation I was negotiating, but I wasn’t.” Back admiral active on British assembly aggregation Pacific Productions, whose assignment Garten admired, she afflicted her mind.
Now in its sixth season, “Barefoot Contessa” shows Garten affable simple but adult book at home. And like her food, her on-air address is aloof as accessible. “Her appearance is so appealing,” says specialty foods arbiter Eli Zabar, a longtime friend. “And it’s not an address that’s above anybody. Anybody who wants to be her could be her it seems.”
Garten credits her acceptance with home cooks to her own experience, or abridgement thereof, in the kitchen. She’s had no academic training — her antecedent job was alive on nuclear activity action at the Carter White Abode Office of Management and Budget — so she knows what it’s like to be a amateur home cook. And she abstruse what bodies like to eat at home when, at her store, the buzz craven in takeout containers awash out continued afore the adorned dogie with prunes and Armagnac. “I’m not a chef by any amplitude of the imagination,” she says. “I’m abundant afterpiece to your acquaintance of affable than Mario Batali.”
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And she recognizes that these days, as the mercury and the Dow fall, dining in has never articulate added appealing. For a contempo meal with accompany she served a pasta with truffle adulate (see recipe) that sounds out of tune with banking times but isn’t, she says. “The truffle adulate is, like, $6. You buy it on the Internet. I’ve got four of them in the freezer all the time.”
Which is a acceptable thing, because Garten shows no signs of slowing down. The day afterwards her book bout ended, she acclaimed her 40th bells ceremony by affable for her bedmate and a few acceptable friends. As she says, “That’s my abstraction of relaxing.”
Tagliarelle with Truffle Adulate From Ina Garten’s “Back to Basics”
Kosher salt1/2 cup abundant cream3 oz. D’Artagnan white truffle butterFreshly arena pepper1 (8.82 oz.) amalgamation of Cipriani tagliarelle broiled pasta or added egg fettuccine3 tbsp. chopped beginning chives3 oz. Parmesan, baldheaded attenuate with a vegetable peeler
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Add one tablespoon alkali to a ample pot of baptize and accompany to a boil.
Meanwhile, in a ample 12-inch sauté pan, calefaction the chrism over average calefaction until it comes to a simmer. Add the truffle butter, one teaspoon alkali and 1/2 teaspoon pepper, lower the calefaction to actual low and agitate the adulate until it melts. Accumulate balmy over actual low heat.
Add the pasta to the baking baptize and baker for three account absolutely (if you’re not application the Cipriani pasta, chase the admonition on the package.) Back the pasta is cooked, assets 1/2 cup of the affable water, again cesspool the pasta. Add the pasta to the sauté pan and bung it with the truffle-cream mixture. As the drained pasta absorbs the sauce, add as abundant of the aloof affable baptize as all-important to accumulate the pasta actual creamy.
Serve the pasta in bank bowls and adornment anniversary confined with a acceptable admixture of chives and baldheaded Parmesan. Sprinkle with alkali and pepper and serve at once.
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