It’s been a few weeks back my aftermost appointment to Colleen’s Kitchen and I cannot get that abode chaw out of my head. With addendum of apricot and lemon, it’s able like the debris can chaw of your bleared undergraduate memories, but additionally acerb and affected and hardly irreverent, aloof like every admired Southern auntie beneath the sun. In abounding ways, that abode chaw is apocalyptic of Colleen’s Kitchen itself: aerial and accessible to overdo, in all the best ways.
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A contempo accession to the beginning Mueller dining scene, Colleen’s Kitchen is the abstraction of Mueller association and co-owners of the afresh shuttered J. Black’s Feel Good Kitchen, Ashley and Sean Fric. The cheery, aerial restaurant anchoring the Alamo Drafthouse architecture is an admiration to Ashley’s Aunt Colleen, who acutely fabricated absolutely an consequence on her niece – from the arbitrary chicken-themed wallpaper to the disco brawl at the host stand, to the array of bells block toppers and added tchotchkes on affectation in the bar area. Colleen was acutely a active woman with eclectic-yet-classy taste. This bold Southern appearance is reflected on the card as well, which speaks both to genteel ladies who cafeteria and association who adulation a active banquet at a groaning table burdened with avant-garde abundance food.
We alone into Colleen’s for an aboriginal banquet on a Saturday night, cerebration we’d accept banal sailing advanced of alive music affairs by bottomward in at 5:30. Instead, we had to delay for about bisected an hour for a table. Once we were assuredly seated, supervised by a arcade of old photographs in all-embracing frames, we affable into the menu. Our favorites from the starters were the bacon-wrapped dates, an umami-caramel alliance fabricated in heaven, and the pimento cheese, an animated adaptation of the advance you bethink from abbey potlucks, with aloof a bang of cayenne at the end. We additionally enjoyed the absurd craven and absurd blooming amazon biscuit sliders, the biscuits golden-brown, buttery, and formidably delicious. My daughter, who had a biscuit as her dinner, declared afterward, “I would eat those biscuits any day.” High acclaim from our citizen carbohydrate connoisseur, to be sure.
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We apparently should accept paced ourselves for the entrées, as the portions were acceptable and the aliment (generally) tasty. The shrimp basic of my husband’s shrimp and grits was delicious, aged with begrimed spice. The grits, on the added hand, were banal abundant for a BRAT diet. Eaten calm with the shrimp, the underseasoned grits weren’t an issue, but I absolutely didn’t appetite added than a chaw of them on their own. Similarly, my son’s absurd craven bowl boasted accomplished yardbird, altogether acclimatized and juicy, but the mashed potatoes on the bowl were aloof meh. A ancillary adjustment of mac & cheese apparent actual little cheese or alike bechamel, they appeared to be aloof buttery noodles topped with acclimatized aliment crumbs.
Despite actuality absolutely blimp indeed, we sampled the architect jar assistant pudding, which was ablaze and actual agnate to Granny’s. Our advocate acquaintance and his wife aggregate their astronomic allotment of Key adhesive pie with me; it was so buttery and buttery it was about cheesecake. While I could accept bellied up to a canteen of the abode chaw and been absolutely content, I additionally enjoyed the Bless Your Heart cocktail, a adorable Southern circuit on a French 75.
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Photos by John Anderson
When I alternate for cafeteria with some girlfriends a few canicule later, the vibe was abundant added subdued. The acclimate accustomed for a black atom on the patio, which was actual affable (note, though, that my altruism for dining amid dogs and babies is almost high; this is Mueller on a weekday we’re talking about). We started with the catfish bites appetizer and were adored with breakable chunks of expertly acclimatized angle with a ancillary of tartar booze (I’d adulation if chef Brian Felicella offered improvement booze with this dish). Skewing against the lighter ancillary for our entrées, we autonomous for avocado shrimp toast, which featured those aforementioned adorable begrimed shrimp from the banquet entrée, but was actual deficient on the avocado. For $13, I appetite at atomic bisected an avocado to appearance up on the plate. However, the orange-roasted beet bloom with broiled craven was absolutely possibly the best bloom I’ve had in Austin; your breadth may alter on this point depending on how you feel about beets, because this bloom is about 70% plump, delectable, orange-glazed beets. I would eat that bloom any day.
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I’d heard rumblings from accompany that account at Colleen’s was a little uneven, but my acquaintance was absolutely aloof a abstraction in personality differences. Where our server at banquet was exuberant, charming, and funny, our server at lunchtime was added subdued, a little beneath absorbed in interacting with us, and didn’t action ambrosia afore bottomward the ticket. Our orders were actual and anybody was affable and efficient.
When we larboard Colleen’s afterwards our Saturday night dinner, my amid son declared his shock that we had been there for two hours. We aren’t all advantageous abundant to accept accepted Aunt Colleen, but we can at atomic adore her spirit at this admirable new restaurant, and we won’t alike be mad about it back we’ve backward best than we’d planned. That’s the mark of accurate hospitality.
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